Theory and Misconceptions

Research studies of wolves in their natural habitat demonstrates that wolves are not dominated by an “Alpha Wolf” that is the most aggressive male, or male-female pairing, of the pack. Rather, they have found that wolf packs are very similar to how human families are organized, and there is little aggression or fights for “dominance.” Wolves, whether it be the parents or the cubs of a pack, depend on each other to survive in the wild; consequently wolves that engage in aggressive behaviors toward each other would inhibit the pack’s ability to survive and flourish. While social hierarchies do exist (just as they do among human families) they are not related to aggression in the way it is commonly portrayed (incorrectly) in popular culture. As Senior Research Scientist L. David Mech recently wrote regarding his many years of study of wolves, we should “once and for all end the outmoded view of the wolf pack as an aggressive assortment of wolves consistently competing with each other to take over the pack.” (Mech, 2008) In addition to our new understanding of wolf behavior, study into canine behavior has found that dogs, while sharing some traits with their wolf cousins, have many more significant differences. As a result, the idea that dog behavior can be explained through the application of wolf behavior models is no more relevant than suggesting that chimpanzee behavior can be used to explain human behavior. Unfortunately, this idea that dogs are basically “domesticated wolves” living in our homes still persists among dog trainers and behavior counselors, as well as breeders, owners, and the media.

One of the biggest misconceptions we find ourselves faced with is the definition of “dominance.” Dogs are often described as being “dominant” which is an incorrect usage of the term. Dominance is not a personality trait. Dominance is “primarily a descriptive term for relationships between pairs of individuals.” and moreover, “the use of the expression ‘dominant dog’ is meaningless, since “dominance” can apply only to a relationship between individuals. (Bradshaw et al., 2009) Dominance comes into play in a relationship between members of the same species when one individual wants to have the first pick of available resources such as food, beds, toys, bones, etc. Even between dogs, however, it is not achieved through force or coercion but through one member of the relationship deferring to the other peacefully. In many households the status of one dog over another is fluid; in other words, one dog may be the first to take his pick of toys, but will defer to the other dog when it comes to choice of resting places. Dogs that use aggression to “get what they want” are not displaying dominance, but rather anxiety-based behaviors, which will only increase if they are faced with verbal and/or physical threats from their human owners. Basing one’s interaction with their dog on dominance is harmful to the dog-human relationship and leads to further stress, anxiety and aggression from the dog, as well as fear and antipathy of the owner.

Living with Dogs: What’s Important?

When it comes to living and working with dogs, the concept of dominance is largely irrelevant. This may come as a surprise to many dog owners. The truth is, when working with dogs that have a training or behavior issue, the goal of the dog professional is to develop a behavior modification or training plan that will address the problem at hand. This generally does not require understanding a dog’s motivation and emotional state, but rather focuses on what the dog is doing (behavior), and what we want the dog to “do,” helping the dog understand how to perform the desired behaviors and then rewarding him for doing so.

Far too many times dog owners have been given advice to “show the dog who’s boss” and “be the alpha.” The unfortunate side effect of this thinking is that it creates an adversarial relationship between the owner and their dog with the belief that the dog is somehow trying to control the home and the owner’s life. Such misinformation damages the owner-dog relationship, and may lead to fear, anxiety and /or aggressive behaviors from the dog. Dogs cannot speak our language and they can find themselves thrust into situations in our homes that they find difficult to comprehend, by owners trying to behave as they mistakenly believe “alpha” wolves do.

Rather than dominance, it is most often a lack of clear interspecies communication that leads to behaviors we find troubling. It is the human’s responsibility to teach our dogs the behaviors that we find appropriate, and reward them when they do the things we like. Just as importantly, it is our role to show them which behaviors are not appropriate in a constructive and compassionate manner that does not lead to further anxiety on the dog’s part.

Aggression is Not the Answer

Actions such as “alpha rolls” and “scruff shakes” have no basis in fact when studying wolf or dog behavior, and they only lead to creating unnecessary fear on our dog’s part toward us, fear that ultimately can lead to aggression because the frightened dog knows of no other way to protect itself other than using its teeth. We all owe it to our dogs to see the world from their point of view in order to create a more harmonious relationship. Whether we are looking at a dog or a wolf, actions such as grabbing a dog and forcing it into a down, growling at the dog, and other aggressive behaviors directed toward the animal will only lead to the animal developing a “fight-or-flight” response where the animal fears for its life. In this situation, the dog will either freeze out of fear, flee far away from the threatening animal or person if an opportunity presents itself to get away, or, fight to save itself. When we engage in such behaviors toward our dogs, we are not telling the dog we are “boss,” instead we are telling the dog we are dangerous creatures to be avoided or fought off. There is no “dominance” in these scenarios—only terror and the instinct to defend oneself against attack.

If Not Dominance, Then What Do We Use?

Fortunately, many trainers and behavior professionals now present concepts that focus on building a caring and happy relationship with your dog, instead of relying on dominance. Some trainers refer to the term “leadership” or other similar terms that are less adversarial than “dominance” or “Alpha.” What these trainers have in common is a desire to explain effective, non-confrontational and humane ways of living successfully with dogs. These educated approaches aim to strengthen the bond between the owner and the dog and teach owners more effective ways of communicating with another species. For dogs with behavior problems, trainers employ programs such as “Nothing in Life is Free (NILIF)” which works along the principal that the dog must “do” something to earn what he wants (i.e. sit to get dinner, walk on a loose leash to move forward, etc.) These programs are effective because the dog is issued a structured set of rules that are consistently reinforced and the dog learns what he needs to do in order to get the things that he wants such as food, petting, playtime, etc. Because dogs do not have the power of human speech and language, behavior problems and anxiety can result when they are left to fend for themselves in deciding how to live in our world without guidance that makes sense. Just like with people, we behave better and thrive in a world that “makes sense” to us and has a clear structure.

The myths that resonate in “dominance theory,” such as not allowing the dog to sleep on the bed, or eat first, or go through doorways first, have no bearing on whether or not the dog will look to the owner for guidance. The specific rules of the relationship are up to the owner and are based on what they want in their household. Humane, educated trainers should strive to teach owners to positively and gently influence and motivate their dogs to act in a manner that befits their own home and tailor the “rules” to each individual. There is no scientifically validated data to uphold the belief that you must eat before your dog, or keep them from sleeping on your bed, or walking in front of you, and owners should not be led to believe this and live in a state of fear and anxiety over their dog’s possible takeover of their home. In fact, the vast majority of dogs and owners have wonderful, mutually-rewarding relationships—even if the dog is allowed to sleep on the bed, eats alongside the owner, and does many other things erroneously labeled “dominance.” To help illustrate some of the myths about dominance, we have prepared a related document, “Dominance Myths and Dog Training Realities.”

Final Thoughts

When choosing a trainer or behavior counselor to work with you and your dog, keep in mind that philosophies and methodologies among trainers varies. The Association of Pet Dog Trainers recommends interviewing potential trainers to determine their beliefs regarding dominance and using physical force and intimidation to train a dog, whether for obedience or for behavior problems. An educated canine professional should be well-acquainted with the latest scientific understandings of dog behavior and be willing to openly discuss their training methodologies with you.

What You Need:

• Crate: Buy a crate (that is the right size) for use in potty training and providing down time. Dogs are den animals, so their crate will be comforting. Put a blanket inside to increase comfort.
• ID Tag: This is a very important thing you can do for your dog.
• Martingale Collar or Easy Walk Harness: Your dog will need to go on many walks, so buy a collar he can’t slip out of. Try a Premier Easy Walk harness if you have a difficult adolescent dog.
• 6-foot leash
• Food and water Dishes
• Dog beds: If you are not letting your dogs on the furniture, provide some comfortable beds in the main rooms of the house so they can relax with your family.
• High-Quality Food: Look for healthy ingredients in a high quality food. See your veterinarian for special food requirements for your breed of dog.
• Treats: When you start training, you’ll need treats.
• Poop bags: Use these on every walk.

What to Expect:

• Adjustment Period: When you first get your dog, they will spend the first few days just trying to get adjusted.
• Potty training: You don’t want her having accidents in the house, so keep an eye on your new dog constantly so she can’t make a mistake.
• Chewing: Your dog doesn’t know which things are her chew toys and which aren’t. Keep an eye on her until she figures it out.
• Teenager Phase: This lasts from about 6-18 months depending on the dog, and you will wonder why your previously wonderfully behaved dog has suddenly started to test her limits. This is normal. Just be consistent!

What to Do:

• Set Consistent Rules: Decide as a family what the rules are and enforce them from the beginning. Sending a consistent message to your dog is an important part of training.
• Establish a Routine: Dogs respond well to routines, try to keep meal, walk and play times as consistent as possible.
• Be Positive: Positive-reinforcement training is the best way to train. Be patient and positive.
• Socialize: If you have a puppy, socialize them with other puppies, people, bicycles, this will help them throughout life.
• Post Emergency Numbers: Post the numbers for your veterinarian and nearest emergency practice on your refrigerator with directions, if necessary.

Training time is doubled. Dogs learn better when worked with individually. Multiple dogs just can’t perform well together until they master a behavior by themselves first.

Preventing co-dependence. It’s possible to create too much of a good thing. Dogs that spend all day-everyday together can become so bonded that they experience extreme stress in the absence of their friends. Sometimes a vet or groomer visit can become a very stressful experience for either of the dogs. Imagine how they will feel when one passes away.

Multiple dog households should help their dogs against this type of stress by doing the following:

• Make sure each dog uses his own crate.
• Walk your dogs at different times or take them on separate dog-friendly errand-running adventures. Leave a chew toy or bone for the dog at home.
• Integrate “individual time” into your dogs’ routine every day. Consider putting one dog outside and leaving one in while you are at work sometimes.

Let’s Play! It is a great thing to have multiple dogs, they have built in play pals! They can help keep each other occupied throughout the day, however, similar-aged dogs who spend hours on end engaged in rambunctious play are at risk for developing an overly rough and tumble play style that *could* have bully-ish tendencies when out with other dogs. Dogs with regular access to rough play with other dogs are also at a greater risk for developing leash aggression. Because they spend so much time engaged in play, they begin to think they should have equal access to every dog they see and get frustrated when leashed out in public, unable to run and greet fellow canines. Barking and lunging out of frustration is the result, and in extreme cases, that frustration turns into aggression. (Think doggie road rage!)

When managing dog-to-dog play, if one dog is always pinning the other to the ground or always the one doing the chasing and never letting himself be chased, their energy and focus should be redirected.

Fraternity, Sorority or Co-Ed Canines? There are some generalizations to consider when deciding which gender dog to add to your family at any given time. Dogs of the same sex, age and the same breed are more likely to have a power struggle as they grow up. Sometimes the best pairings are dogs of opposite sex, but all dogs are individuals so it is important to consider the personality of the dog you have, not just the gender, when considering a new companion. Training and management go a long way toward making a friendly household regardless of age, breed or sex.

Respect Your Elders! Special consideration should be taken when integrating a puppy into a household with an elderly or ailing dog. Puppies 14-weeks and younger hold a “puppy license” that often allows them to get away with things that won’t fly in the eyes of older dogs as they approach 16-weeks, so be mindful of a potential change in dynamics as the puppy ages.

• Small dogs such as toys and mini’s are not suitable for toddlers and young children. These tiny dogs are fragile and cannot  endure rough handling and supervising of some children. If a dog feels vulnerable and threatened he may lash out. Children that may be rough should have a dog no smaller than 25-30 pounds, this will be a sturdy companion who is not vulnerable.
• Many of the large breeds — Newfoundlands, hounds, mastiffs, retrievers, Leonbergers — are generally more easy-going and are less likely to be hurt when accidentally stepped on or tripped over. They also are more likely to look after your tykes.
• Only in households with active older children and teens, high energy medium and large breeds may be an appropriate choice if enough exercise can be provided.

All dogs have the capacity to bite, a dog’s breed is only one of many factors that affect temperament and behavior.

There are always factors to consider while selecting a dog for your home, selecting one from a rescue involves a few more considerations. They could have psychological problems caused by stress or fear.

Do Your Homework

What traits are important to you? Do you have kids? Other dogs, are they active or sedentary? How about cats? Do you spend weekends hiking or do you stay home? What kind of  activities will you require your dog to participate in?

You should still have an idea of what breeds will fit in your lifestyle and which traits are important to you. If there is a particular breed that interests you, maybe you should contact a breed-specific rescue to start your search.

Temperament Testing?

In a rescue situation many dogs may not display their true personality. It is often a stressful environment, which can cause them to hide traits that can appear in your home or over-exaggerate traits that may not appear later. Temperament testing brings them out of this environment, to see better how they will be later.

Interact with the Dog

There are several warning signs you can see yourself if the dog has not been tested. Take the dog out of the kennel to a quiet place where you can interact. The dog should run toward you when you call and enjoy out petting. If this does not happen, it is a warning that he might be fearful of all people. Pet the dog. If she wants to leave or shows some type of aggression, this is not a good sign. If she is a small dog, pick her up to see if she is comfortable with a little handling.

Watch how the dog responds to loud noises or distractions. If he startles easily, this can be a warning.

Introduce the Dog to All Family Members

If you have children, a spouse or another dog, make sure everyone gets a chance to interact with the dog before bringing them home. The dog should approach your husband and children with the same excitement with which she approached you. If she seems hesitant around your children, she may not make a good family dog.

Take Time

Don’t make any snap decisions. Don’t choose a dog because you feel sorry for her. Make sure you feel a connection and the dog meets all the requirements on which you previously decided with your family.

Resources

• www.petfinder.com
• Shelter Pet Project
• ASPCA
• Adopt A Pet
• Breed rescue directory

There are different kinds of breeders and you need to be informed so that you can make the best choices. Not all breeders are created equal here are some of the things to watch for:

• A breeder should never mind answering questions. Actually, they should be asking you questions. Be prepared to talk about your family, your house, references, and your previous experiences with pets.
• Be careful about breeders that have different prices for male versus female puppies or litters. Good breeders don’t breed for profit.
• A good breeder has a limited number of litters per year. Maybe you will even have to be on a waiting list.
• A good breeder should always be knowledgeable about their breed. Be sure to ask what health testing they do with their adult dogs and puppies. Most breeds have some health issues that need to be checked.
• Does the breeder offer a written contract? A written contract protects you give you any guarantees in writing. Do they have health guarantees? What about poor temperament or genetic faults?
• Do they belong to any dog clubs or are active in the breed? A breeder should be active in a local or national club as well as do something with their dogs like conformation, obedience, tracking, herding, Schutzhund, field work, etc.

More Considerations:

Narrow your search down to just one or two breeders, then ask if you might come visit their mature dogs. It is not good

• if they are not receptive to you visiting
• if they won’t freely show you their dogs or kennel facilities
• or if the dogs appear to be overly shy, fearful, or aggressive

What you see in their adult dogs is a good indication of what you are going to get in your puppy later.

Once you have selected your favorite puppy, find out everything you need to its background. Get a pedigree of the litter, medical records (when you buy the puppy), and photographs of the parents. Put a deposit down on the puppy before it is sold to someone else.

To find breeders, check out the American Kennel Club: www.akc.org. Each club can point you to various breeders located near you.

“Good” Reasons

Selecting the Right Dog

• Research a variety of breeds so that you know their common characteristics. Even if you are looking for a mixed breed, know what each of the breeds are like.
• There are no guarantees that a dog will exactly match how most of the breed acts, but research on breeds will help. For example, you might learn that herding breeds, such as Shetland Sheepdogs and Border Collies, have a strong inclination to herd livestock, are bred to run and work for hours at a time, and will use barking, nipping/biting, chasing or a combination of all of these to control their herd. So, if you live in an apartment or have small children who take up much of your day, a dog that requires abundant exercise, loves to bark and chase small moving objects is not going to fit for your current lifestyle. You might instead want to consider an older dog with a mellower personality that will mesh well with your children and your household.
• Assess how much time and money you have to spend on your new dog. Breeds with large grooming needs will require regular trips to a groomer. Some breeds will need a lot of exercise and a lot of time from you. Some breeds are more assertive, such as terriers or working breeds, which are likely not the best choice for new dog owners or will require more time.
• You should also decide on whether you have the right lifestyle for a puppy or an adult dog. Housetraining, basic training, socialization, and “puppy proofing” your home all take much time and effort and patience on your part. If you have a busy life, then a puppy may not be the best choice for you. There are many advantages to taking home an adult dog, such as the likelihood that the dog is already housetrained as well as may have had some training from the previous owner or owners. Also, an adult dog already has a developed personality that you can observe and the adult dog you acquire may not require the same amount of physical work as a puppy.

All dogs need basic medical attention, training, grooming and exercise.

After you decide on the breed, What Next?

If you want a purebred, you can find a good breeder by:

• Asking friends who have worked with a local breeder.
• Visiting www.akc.org, for local breeder info.
• Contacting a breed specific rescue group.
• It is even estimated that 25 – 30% of dogs in animal shelters are purebreds.

Mixed breeds are a great way to go:

• Visit internet sites such as Petfinder.com
• Visit your local animal shelters to see if a particular dog meets your criteria.

Remember that breeders, rescues or shelters will want to interview a buyer to make sure that the dog is going to a good home.

Ask a Professional

You may want to enlist the help of a professional trainer or behaviorist. Many dog professionals offer consultations to help you sort out the type of dog that is right for you. They often have good connections and know what to look for.

While looking for your dog, keep in mind the commitment you are making.

It doesn’t matter if you decide on a purebred or a mixed, each dog can provide your home with love and companionship. Remember that some dogs are better to fit your lifestyle than others. So, take some time to make the right decision. Selecting the right dog will help ensure that both of you will enjoy your years to the fullest.

The Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT), the largest educational and professional association for dog trainers in the world, congratulates the President and his family on their new canine addition. We asked our members to provide their top tips for training and living with a dog in the White House (or any house!)

Greenville, SC – April 13, 2009 – The Association of Pet Dog Trainers promotes positive, dog-friendly training based on humane, scientific methods. All dogs, whether the “First Dog” or dogs who live on “Main Street,” require training and socialization to become happy, harmonious residents in a family’s household. Learning should be fun and exciting for humans and dogs alike, and all family members should become actively involved in the training process.

We queried our members about what they would teach the new “First Dog” if they became the White House dog trainer. A detailed listing of their advice is on our web site, www.apdt.com. Some highlights include:

1) Use Positive Training Techniques – The APDT recommends that you use training methods based on positive reinforcement and the latest scientific understandings of dog behavior. This will motivate your dog to choose to follow your commands, rather than doing them out of fear or avoidance. Teaching your dog with the enduring power of love, kindness and respect will create a deeper bond with your dog and family and will provide a profound example for all dog owners in the U.S. The APDT has provided an article on how to find a humane, professional trainer on the APDT’s web site at http://www.apdt.com/po/ts/choose_trainer.aspx.

2) Teach proper greeting behavior - Since the “First Dog” will encounter many new people, places and things, socializing to a variety of people, places and experiences on a regular basis and pairing this with positive reinforcement will ensure that he will be a good “ambassador” for all dogs in the U.S.

3) Involve the family and staff in training – Dogs learn through consistency and repetition; everyone who encounters the dog should be “on the same page” as to how to greet him, what verbal commands and hand signals to use, and what behaviors to reinforce.

4) Use games and play in training – Using games can be a wonderful way, for children in particular, to train a dog to basic thru advanced obedience commands in a positive and fun atmosphere.

5) Provide appropriate chew toys – All dogs, particularly young and adolescent dogs, need to chew. If young dogs are not given proper chewing outlets, they will easily find the wrong ones! Keep the White House furnishings secure by providing the “First Dog” with food-filled chew toys to exercise his mouth and his mind.

It’s nice to think that dogs live to please their masters, but like most of us, they live to better themselves. While asking a dog to do something, they think, “What’s in it for me right now?” Behaviors that are rewarded are more likely to be repeated, so when we reward our dogs, they know they are pleasing us! Understanding what your dog finds rewarding is an important step in the training process.

2. Using Food in Training

Food can be a very valuable reinforcer (like your paycheck!) for dogs during training. It is on a short list of things that dogs start with knowing is good. While most dogs learn to enjoy praise, petting and play – all good rewards — food still holds a special place in their mind due to its primal nature.

Some are worried they will train a dog who only works if he knows there’s food. This can happen if food is not used correctly. The food should be used as a reward and not a bribe. There is actually a big difference!

3. Reward Verses Bribe

If your dog does something you’ve asked him to, give him a reward. If you ask him to do something he knows how to do, and he doesn’t do it, maybe ask again. If he STILL doesn’t do it, and when you then reach into your pocket and get a treat or go towards the cookie jar, he quickly complies with your original request, THAT treat just became a bribe! You asked him to do it, he didn’t, you go to get food, then he decided to get to work. Strive to avoid this.

4. Prevent Bribery

Get the visual presence of the food out of the picture as soon as possible. When lure training, (think of the cookie on the dog’s nose to achieve a sit), you want to get the cookie away as soon as you see him grasp the basics of the behavior. Then, start using the same gesture without the cookie, and reward the dog with a treat from your pocket once he actually sits. This takes the reward further away from the job.

Another tip for preventing bribery is to make sure you have your dog’s full attention before asking him to do something. Make sure the dog is paying attention. Teach him to respond quickly to his name, so that he pays more attention to you. His name should get the same response as “Do you want a treat?”

5. Using Life Rewards

When your dog is responding to hand-signals along with treats, begin to vary how he gets his rewards. Sometimes use a treat, but often use something else he wants – like his leash put on to go for a walk, his favorite toy to be thrown, or an invitation to join you on the couch for snuggle time. Life rewards will help him realize that he can get what he wants by pleasing you.  This also allows you to use food randomly – as a surprise – this extremely exciting for dogs, and often motivates them to work even harder.

Training Tricks of the Trade

• Use soft treats and make them small – about the size of a pea, this aids your timing as a trainer. They don’t care how big each treat is, they want more of them.
• Try different types of treats. Cooked meats, cheese, hotdogs, pasta, dry cereal and even fruits and vegetables can be rewarding to dogs. Experiment to discover what excites him.
• What’s exciting at home may be harder to get your dog’s attention in other environments. Save your “special” treats for training in distracting places.
• Pet your dog as you deliver the treat. This will become a treat in itself.
• Don’t go over board! The goal is to achieve a trained dog – not a trained pudgy dog! Cut back what goes into the food bowl or use a some of his kibble for training.